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Wednesday, July 16, 2003

The other Africa

Presidential trips overseas are always whirlwind affairs that leave the leader with snapshots, but in Africa, so vast and varied a place, capturing real life is especially difficult. But if everyday Nigerians encountered along Mr. Bush's route had been in charge of the presidential schedule, he might have come a lot closer.

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In the decidedly grittier world most Nigerians inhabit, the president would eat delicacies from the street, things like goat head and pounded yam, and he would quench his thirst with water that did not come from a bottle, or even a tap. If there was time, he might fetch that water himself, balancing a plastic jug on his head, to get an idea of how so many African women start their days.

He would also spend time out of the big cities, since most Africans live in rural areas. He would be stopped at a checkpoint deep in the bush by children with guns.

But not everything would be so grim. Some slum dwellers in this sprawling city said they would give him palm wine and keep him out late at a music joint. And he would have seen, after waking up from a night's sleep on a straw mat laid out in the corner of some small hut, his arms and legs covered with mosquito bites, that Africans are a hardy lot.

"Somebody like him doesn't understand sufficiently what we go through every day," said a man who identified himself as Sheik Muhammad, and who said he would gladly serve as Mr. Bush's tour guide, especially since he has no job.

Ahh, Africa . . .

posted by chris at 11:15 AM

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